Givenchy S/S ‘21 - A New Era of Classic
Matthew Williams made his debut as the new Creative Director of Givenchy earlier this month at Paris Fashion Week. Anyone who loves fashion, myself included, has been anticipating this moment since it was announced only this last June that Williams would be replacing Clare Waight Keller as creative director. As Vanessa Friedman stated plain and simply in the New York Times, Williams has no formal training but rather has the keen ability to, “amalgamate the broader cultural moment.” This was apparent in his SS21 debut, that he clearly has set a strong tone and energy in his first collection for the iconic brand.
The silhouettes were strong and consistent throughout all 54 looks. An echo from Givenchy’s Audrey Hepburn days were present in every look, whether it was an extended length blazer with detached/attached sleeves or hints of feminine, delicate colors such as pale pink and bright reds. Perhaps the most striking features were the jewel embellishments on sheer dresses that were paired with harsher hardware on stilettos such as a chain strap and hoop-like fixtures. Matthew Williams was making it clear that he has his own vision for the fashion house. His most recognizable signature is probably his love for industrial fasteners, which can be seen in his trademark belts and jewelry which is inspired by roller coaster seat belts.
The most memorable looks were those with bold shapes and cutouts. We’re referring to a pitch black evening gown with circular cutouts around the elbows and a dramatic cut out exposing the back that was styled with a high-cut red thong. Again, Williams shows us classic juxtaposed with edgy details. Another item worth mentioning was a striking, boxy and angular modernized poncho that came in a multitude of neutral colors and reptile-like textures. While this piece isn’t the most practical, in fact it’s reminiscent of the original corset or a Paul Poiret gown, restricting the extremities and limiting movement, but for appearances sake it fulfilled its duty. Perhaps the selections we personally gravitated to the most were all within the first 10-30 looks. Williams knows how to make a good suit, we know this already.
He seems to have an affinity for Matrix-esque wear, we’re thinking of Tom Anderson suits a la his Alyx FW ‘20 collection that have made their way into the world of Givenchy. We were especially attracted to his looks that consisted of a low-rise slack, high rise undergarment of like coloring paired with a bulky but minimal chest bag. He provides a variety of this look with differing colors following this same formula and they are each a strong start to the collection. Another honorable mention that is slightly off the beaten path is a look that one could associate with beach wear. A bulky, off white and cream colored coat, red leather underwear and a water bottle container and nothing else make up look 15, again impractical but we’re loving the the contradicting statement Williams makes here.
Essentially, Matthew Williams’ entrance was bold. He came, he saw and he presented a collection that has something for men and women. Notes of Givenchy’s past were paid respect with feminine embellishments and color while Williams’ Alyx past crept into his present. Hardware such as statement buckles, chain straps and utilitarian hoops were all on deck for this collection. Whereas practicality wasn’t always demonstrated, it certainly created a strong aesthetic that could very well usher Givenchy into a new era that also references the past. We believe Matthew Williams executed this collection with the same grace and attention Givenchy is famous for and we can’t wait to see what he does next.
xo
SS
Images: Givenchy
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