Art & Fashion Collide
It seems like people are always asking the question of whether or not fashion is art? Many designers will answer yes, while others will protest and say that fashion is for consumption, how can it be art? Perhaps both can be true. If we take a look throughout fashion history we can see evidence of both schools of thought. For example, would Coco Chanel see her work as “art?” Or would she simply see it as a commodity, a means of trade or consumption to the public? Ironically, collectors of Chanel pieces of the past would probably argue that it is art, but would Coco? Then we have legendary designer, and Chanel rival, Elsa Schiaparelli who worked with Surrealist artists such as Salvador Dali and John Cocteau who greatly influenced her most well-known pieces.
But did you know that Schiaparell was the first female fashion designer to grace the cover of TIME Magazine? Or that she is a direct descendant of the Medici family? Schiaparelle dressed the most glamorous of women as well. Women such as the Duchess of Windsor, Katharine Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, Vivienne Leigh, and Ginger Rogers, just to name a few and the list goes on and on. Much like an artist, Schiaparelli created collections with a meaning and with a purpose. She worked with hard lines and strong silhouettes to empower her female clients.
Elsa Sciaparelli was a rival of Coco Chanel. Chanel thought Elsa to be a bit bizarre, that she wasn’t a legitimate designer which is not surprising since Elsa Schiparelli hung with the Surrealist crowd and much like the Surrealist had unusual meanings behind her art. The famous “Lobster Dress,” seems innocent enough but if you study Surrealism and Schiparelli then you would know that the lobster is a sign of provocative sensuality. Dali himself thought the lobster to be the most sexual symbol. In fact the placement of the lobster on this famous gown is suggestive if you see where the lobster is placed...we’ll let you work that one out. It wasn’t understood by many, but isn’t most “art?”
Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian, 1890-1973). Woman's Dinner dress, February 1937. Printed silk organza and synthetic horsehair. Philadelphia Museum of Art, 1969-232-52. Gift of Mme Elsa Schiaparelli, 1969. Source: PMA
Schiaparelli stood out from other designers of her era because of her unique and artistic approach to fashion. It’s probably the best example of a designer merging the art world with the world of couture. In addition to the Lobster Dress, Schiaparelli also created other Surrealist inspired pieces such as the Tear Gown, the Shoe Hat and the Skeleton Dress. No matter how bizarre the garment, she was always met with praise and appreciation for her art. It was authentic, it was meaningful even if only to her and her Surrealist pals, but it was always real and people can sense the difference between authentic and not.
Besides making strides in fashion, Schiaparelli’s infamous perfume, Shocking, from which the Shocking Pink color bears its name. Schiaparelli not only created the most amazing garments but also invented a color as well. How many designers of today can we say have achieved such originality? The very bottle of Shocking was inspired by Mae West’s curves, very similar to Kim Kardashian West’s perfume bottle modeled after her own curves, don’t you think? Schiaparelli not only seamlessly forged art and fashion but has influenced fashion and fragrance for decades to come. We wonder if she would have had any idea...
Today, Schiaparelli is having a revival. For years the house struggled but over the last couple of years the Surrealist fashion house is finding itself on the red carpet with stars such as Bella Hadid, Zendaya and Tracee Ellis Ross just to name a few. The house is staying true to its artistic roots with architectural breastplates and chandelier earrings and those strong angular silhouettes. House Schiaparelli lives on, setting the example of how art and fashion can co-exist and remain authentic and we couldn’t be happier to embrace this continuity and see if designers of the future will follow suit.
